biker77 said:This only applies to j-bend spokes, correct?
biker77 said:My mavic cosmos do not do interlace. Straight pull from the hub to the rim without touching any other spoke. These wheels are fine but slightly flexy under heavy torque.
Did I explain my easton concern incorrectly?
Boeing said:ok thread is a sleeper and hard to click through so sorry if redundant
Anyone Laced a pair of ENVE 28 hole rims?
Giuseppe Magnetico said:Sleeper, funny. Amazing we all still keep coming back, isn't it? You've been awful grumpy lately on the forums, what's the matter?
Of course, I've built dozens of ENVE sets, so have a few others here, but is this another pipe dream wheel set for you that never gets built? Remember the last one we talked about, that never got built either. So before we go chasing unicorns for you.......
Giuseppe Magnetico said:No you got it right, but Mavic being the exception to the rule of what works and what doesn't. Since they started offering complete wheel sets almost 20 years ago their designs have been consistently the worst in the realm of wheels over this period. Shame that the most visible name in wheels makes the crappiest stuff.![]()
Boeing said:ok thread is a sleeper and hard to click through so sorry if redundant
Anyone Laced a pair of ENVE 28 hole rims?
Boeing said:ok thread is a sleeper and hard to click through so sorry if redundant
Anyone Laced a pair of ENVE 28 hole rims?
Giuseppe Magnetico said:No you got it right, but Mavic being the exception to the rule of what works and what doesn't. Since they started offering complete wheel sets almost 20 years ago their designs have been consistently the worst in the realm of wheels over this period. Shame that the most visible name in wheels makes the crappiest stuff.![]()
mr. tibbs said:I ride Ksyrium Elites, and have twice developed floppy spokes in my rear wheel on rides. ;( What factory wheelset would you rec? (And is there a thread for this?) I've noticed Reynolds getting a lot of love. Is that the answer? Or are they just good rims that need a proper builder's touch?
I've been geeking out on wheel tech lately without really understanding how wheels work. Which means I'm mostly just looking at the pretty decals and worrying about catching a crosswind with 60mm rims. Maybe I should start lurking more in this forum...
JA.Tri said:Hi GM (aka ...4Roubaix)
First:
I (95kg) have a set of Mavic Open Pro 32h, Champion spokes, DA/PTap hubs...should I be concerned with longevity...take particular precautions? Apart from minor occasional true, I have had no prob to date.
Second:
Friend (female 54kg, high cadence, soft on gear) is considering Velocity rim 24h (approx 400g...sorry don't know model), PTap G3 hub, titanium spokes ($7-$11 each). The wheelbuilder is quoting $500 AUD for parts and build.
I had previously suggested:
. DTSwiss or Mavic rims (Enve if she had money to burn)
. Worry about MOI rather than just overall weight (she intends Pro3 Race tyres, normal tubes)
I now note possible Mavic issues.
I have...with no real insight, expressed concern at titanium spokes, stretching/breaking. Builder has given no cost rebuild warrantee against breakage.
Question:
Are Ti spokes good value ignoring price...reliability/ride wise?
Is there a build you would suggest in preference?
All forumites...please feel free to comment.
Ta js
Still have no idea what you're talking about. Care to elaborate? One thing I know about you is that you base equipment purchases on fashion first, so a tool, sure, why not.Boeing said:Touche but I didnt tell you what I am riding insetd because you would call me a tool.
calm down and dont buy parts based on a PM next time. Damn![]()
Giuseppe Magnetico said:We were talking about factory built complete wheel sets, what you have going on with your PT sets is custom. Only thing is that Open Pro's aren't what they're all cracked up to be..... ...Take heed, there are much better rims in this genre out there, Ambrosio, DT, H Plus Son.
Ti spokes = waste of money. Better choice in the light realm of spokes would be Sapim CX-Ray or Super Spoke, and the DT Aerolite or Revolution. Anything but Ti.
JA.Tri said:Thank you. Given above suggestions would you go Ambrosio, DT, H Plus Son rather than Velocity?
JA.Tri said:Thank you. Given above suggestions would you go Ambrosio, DT, H Plus Son rather than Velocity?
Giuseppe Magnetico said:Sleeper, funny. Amazing we all still keep coming back, isn't it? You've been awful grumpy lately on the forums, what's the matter?
Of course, I've built dozens of ENVE sets, so have a few others here, but is this another pipe dream wheel set for you that never gets built? Remember the last one we talked about, that never got built either. So before we go chasing unicorns for you.......
Boeing said:So Bro, how you doing it? 3X, alloy whats the job?
Giuseppe Magnetico said:Ok, so every season for the past three I build about a dozen sets of these White Ind. hubs, a great value for a US made hub ($395/set). They aren't the most expensive, though, and they aren't the lightest (95g front/250g rear), but they are super durable and in every hole count possible. Best of all is the Ti freehub body, Shimano/SRAM cogs will not chew these up. All customers reporting 10's of thousands of miles with no issues at all on their everyday bikes.
So my question is to all the people that don't like the set screw for bearing preload. Why not? I'm currently overhauling a 1996 Campy Chorus hubset and I think I know where White got this idea from...![]()
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Jukebox said:The set screw preload I think falters in its lack of precision. With a threaded preload you can add tension evenly, easily and in exact amounts. That being said, I really like WI hubs and the set screw does not keep me from using and recommending them.
Giuseppe Magnetico said:Agreed, threaded end caps would make more sense. This is actually how the old Chorus hub works. It has threaded lock nuts and the NDS lock nut has a set screw. I found a preload method with White Ind. hubs that works pretty well. After the build is complete I just put the rear wheel in a frame and adjust preload by tightening the skewer and and then the set screw. Ideally this should be done in the truing stand, but Park stands do not hold the axle flush. You'd need a P&K or Centrimaster to be able to properly adjust preload. Which is where I'm headed next. The Park stands have served me well for many years, but I think it's time to upgrade.![]()