::::~ Wheelbuilders thread ~::::

[Giuseppe Magnetico]

Damn.

/boner

you too?

Wait, you do less than 32 spokes? Heretic!!!!

sometimes you've got to side with Satan.

I'm guessing his girlfriend weight like 105 lbs.

Exactly! You should work at the circus.

Just out of curiousity, what do the wheel gurus here think is the sort of maximum weight for using less than 32 spokes on a wheel (answers in kilo's please - I don't understand imperial and I'm too lazy to do the conversion )

Your question is too vague, sort of doesn't make sense. Just too many variables missing. Can't generalize even just based on the sum of the parts.

Now those are just stunning - must stop myself from thinking about having a set made !!!!! Do they come with a cassette option?

nope, and I hope they never do. Paul isn't really well known in the "geared" crowd I should say.

 

[richwagmn]

Now those are just stunning - must stop myself from thinking about having a set made !!!!! Do they come with a cassette option?

Is that a hub with threads for a freewheel?

Can you even buy a freewheel today? I can't remember the last one I had. Shimano has been doing cassettes since the days of 6 speeds (deore XT on a bridgestone MB1).

 

[Giuseppe Magnetico]

Is that a hub with threads for a freewheel?

Can you even buy a freewheel today? I can't remember the last one I had. Shimano has been doing cassettes since the days of 6 speeds (deore XT on a bridgestone MB1).

Are you asking your question from the guy who asked a question in the first place? Wouldn't it make more sense to ask me directly? Just saying, I mean, they're my hubs.
To the seemingly untrained eye that is a track hub set, fixed only with the lockring spun on it. And of course you can still get freewheels, plenty to be had, 1-8 speeds.

 

[pedaller]

First Wheel Build

Thanks for all the great info in this thread so far.

So I am looking at building a set of climbing wheels and just want some opinions on a few rim options.

Firstly I weigh 75kg+/- (~165lbs) and tend to spin mostly (until it gets very steep) and are generally quite easy on equipment.

I want the wheels to be tubular (just to try), aluminium and reasonably cheap (as it is my first try). The wheels will mostly be used for long rides(100k+) in the hills and mountains and sportive type events - no plans to race at the moment.

So the rims I've found that go with the above are:

Kinlin TB-25 - Cheapest, little bit heavier than the rest. Bit deeper as well.
Velocity Escape - Next cheapest. Definitely light enough.
Mavic Reflex - Look to be a pretty good rim.
Ambrosio Crono F20 - Most expensive and hard to find but best looking rim and eyeletted as well.

Anyone have any experience with these rims? (or any others I should consider)

 

[Fiemme]

Are you asking your question from the guy who asked a question in the first place? Wouldn't it make more sense to ask me directly? Just saying, I mean, they're my hubs.
To the seemingly untrained eye that is a track hub set, fixed only with the lockring spun on it. And of course you can still get freewheels, plenty to be had, 1-8 speeds.

Where do you get 8 speed freewheels. I have only ever seen them up to 7 speed. Wouldn't you run into issues with spindle length and wheel dish.

I would like more info on this as I have three sets of old campag threaded road hubs (No you can't have them and they are not for sale) and would love to build them up and run an indexed 8 speed groupset.

 

[TexPat]

Where do you get 8 speed freewheels. I have only ever seen them up to 7 speed. Wouldn't you run into issues with spindle length and wheel dish.

I would like more info on this as I have three sets of old campag threaded road hubs (No you can't have them and they are not for sale) and would love to build them up and run an indexed 8 speed groupset.

I haven't seen an eight speed freewheel in 15 years at least, the last being a Sachs product, I think.

 

[Giuseppe Magnetico]

Thanks for all the great info in this thread so far.

So I am looking at building a set of climbing wheels and just want some opinions on a few rim options.

Firstly I weigh 75kg+/- (~165lbs) and tend to spin mostly (until it gets very steep) and are generally quite easy on equipment.

I want the wheels to be tubular (just to try), aluminium and reasonably cheap (as it is my first try). The wheels will mostly be used for long rides(100k+) in the hills and mountains and sportive type events - no plans to race at the moment.

So the rims I've found that go with the above are:

Kinlin TB-25 - Cheapest, little bit heavier than the rest. Bit deeper as well.
Velocity Escape - Next cheapest. Definitely light enough.
Mavic Reflex - Look to be a pretty good rim.
Ambrosio Crono F20 - Most expensive and hard to find but best looking rim and eyeletted as well.

Anyone have any experience with these rims? (or any others I should consider)

The Escapes are going to be the most readily available and probably the best option for a climb/tubular virgin set.

 

[Bustedknuckle]

Thanks for all the great info in this thread so far.

So I am looking at building a set of climbing wheels and just want some opinions on a few rim options.

Firstly I weigh 75kg+/- (~165lbs) and tend to spin mostly (until it gets very steep) and are generally quite easy on equipment.

I want the wheels to be tubular (just to try), aluminium and reasonably cheap (as it is my first try). The wheels will mostly be used for long rides(100k+) in the hills and mountains and sportive type events - no plans to race at the moment.

So the rims I've found that go with the above are:

Kinlin TB-25 - Cheapest, little bit heavier than the rest. Bit deeper as well.
Velocity Escape - Next cheapest. Definitely light enough.
Mavic Reflex - Look to be a pretty good rim.
Ambrosio Crono F20 - Most expensive and hard to find but best looking rim and eyeletted as well.

Anyone have any experience with these rims? (or any others I should consider)

Record or DA hubs, Velocity Escape rims. Revolution spokes front and left side rear, DT comps right side. 3 cross all around, brass nipps-make for a really nice wheelset.

 

[Bustedknuckle]

Is that a hub with threads for a freewheel?

Can you even buy a freewheel today? I can't remember the last one I had. Shimano has been doing cassettes since the days of 6 speeds (deore XT on a bridgestone MB1).

http://www.interlocracing.com/freewheels_steel.html

Nice ones, I sell 'em..no 8sm freewheels these days. Poor idea with so much axle overhang anyway.

 

[Giuseppe Magnetico]

Where do you get 8 speed freewheels. I have only ever seen them up to 7 speed. Wouldn't you run into issues with spindle length and wheel dish.

I would like more info on this as I have three sets of old campag threaded road hubs (No you can't have them and they are not for sale) and would love to build them up and run an indexed 8 speed groupset.

You and TexPat do a google search on 8s freewheels, still around, and plentiful, but what you are trying to accomplish is impossible. Your rear hub and rear spacing of the frame have to match, if 126mm you're relegated to 7s max. Even with 130mm rear and 8s your grouppo will have to be a Shimano one as Campy indexing will not work with SIS spaced freewheels, and in the new realm that's all you can get. Go friction and you won't have any compatibility issues.

 

[Fiemme]

You and TexPat do a google search on 8s freewheels, still around, and plentiful, but what you are trying to accomplish is impossible. Your rear hub and rear spacing of the frame have to match, if 126mm you're relegated to 7s max. Even with 130mm rear and 8s your grouppo will have to be a Shimano one as Campy indexing will not work with SIS spaced freewheels, and in the new realm that's all you can get. Go friction and you won't have any compatibility issues.

Thanks for the info. I have an old pair of Shimano 105 down tube gear levers that can be set for friction or indexed 8 speed. I think i'll give it a go.

Pedaller
As for the light weight tubular wheels. I use Velocity Escapes (3x to DA-8s and Campy-10s Hubs) and have had no trouble what so ever. I weigh in at approximately 90kg and I train and race on Escapes. As GM said the Escapes are going to be the easiest to get, and possible the one of the cheapest.

 

[Giuseppe Magnetico]

Thanks for the info. I have an old pair of Shimano 105 down tube gear levers that can be set for friction or indexed 8 speed. I think i'll give it a go.

You also have to make certain that your rear derailleur can handle the largest cog. The smallest large cog on an 8s freewheel I've seen is 28t. You'd need to have either a medium, or large cage rear der.

 

[Giuseppe Magnetico]

Llewellyn, your wheel set is on it's way... Alchemy hubs, H Plus Son TB 14 rims. CHROMEGASM!!!!

 

[Llewellyn]

Llewellyn, your wheel set is on it's way... Alchemy hubs, H Plus Son TB 14 rims. CHROMEGASM!!!!

Beautiful, just beautiful.

Lost for words

 

[marathon marke]

Llewellyn, your wheel set is on it's way... Alchemy hubs, H Plus Son TB 14 rims. CHROMEGASM!!!!

Wow, forgot how beautiful polished aluminum really is! I might have to build up a set myself.

 

[Notso Swift]

Llewellyn, your wheel set is on it's way... Alchemy hubs, H Plus Son TB 14 rims. CHROMEGASM!!!!

Out of interest, what was the freight

 

[Giuseppe Magnetico]

Out of interest, what was the freight

A wheel set from the US to the AU generally ships for $80-120 depending on addresses and insurance. I'm actually holding on to these for another day or two to do a proper photo shoot with them. This combination of hub and rim is the absolute ultimate version of a mod classic and I will most likely do this same exact build when I restore my 98 Colnago MasterXLight.

 

[trompe le monde]

Maybe this has been discussed in the thread, but a general question about rim material. I've ridden aluminum rimmed wheels and am considering having a shallow profile carbon rimmed wheelset built. It would be for general use. I realize that the advantages carbon carry with it is lower weight and possibly longer lifespan. The negative that I know of is that brake power modulation can be somewhat grabby and that they can overheat if undertaking a long descent.

The rims would be tubular, so no carbon clinchers.

Any advice about experience with both types of rim material would be appreciated.

 

[Bustedknuckle]

Maybe this has been discussed in the thread, but a general question about rim material. I've ridden aluminum rimmed wheels and am considering having a shallow profile carbon rimmed wheelset built. It would be for general use. I realize that the advantages carbon carry with it is lower weight and possibly longer lifespan. The negative that I know of is that brake power modulation can be somewhat grabby and that they can overheat if undertaking a long descent.

The rims would be tubular, so no carbon clinchers.

Any advice about experience with both types of rim material would be appreciated.

You summed it up well. Carbon is stiff and light, the best applications are indeed tubular. They can last a long time but make sure the sidewall is 'treated'
to ensure long life with brake pads. Braking is not as good as aluminum but still they can be stopped.

Expensive, light, stiff, somewhat more fragile to big impacts, once cracked, cannot be ridden like a dented aluminum rim(carbon doesn't really dent).

 

[trompe le monde]

Thanks for the reply Bustedknuckle. I suppose my concern about carbon rims is with regards to the cost vs benefit they may provide. Yes, in a deeper profile rim that answer is probably had a bit more easily, but since I'm after a lower profile rim I'm actually a bit unsure.

Again, thanks.

 

[biker77]

So despite all the great advice on this thread, I bought a pair of easton ea50 wheels for a very low price. Out of the box the rear hub was overtight which I fixed, but I presumed they were sonically tuned to perfection and they were true. Front is 24 radial with rear 28 radial non-drive, 2 cross drive.

Less than 200km and a rear drive side spoke snapped in half. I have never had this happen before so am returning the wheels.

The spoke with the head outside is laced over the head inside spoke. This looks like it puts way too much stress on the heads out spoke and as a result it would snap at the weakest part.

My questions to the thread:

1. Was the wheel incorrectly laced?
2. Not destressed properly?
3. Bad hub design that despite proper lacing creates a stress point?
4. Is there another explanation (like a bad spoke)?
5. What is the "proper" way to lace 2 cross drive side?

 

[Bustedknuckle]

So despite all the great advice on this thread, I bought a pair of easton ea50 wheels for a very low price. Out of the box the rear hub was overtight which I fixed, but I presumed they were sonically tuned to perfection and they were true. Front is 24 radial with rear 28 radial non-drive, 2 cross drive.

Less than 200km and a rear drive side spoke snapped in half. I have never had this happen before so am returning the wheels.

The spoke with the head outside is laced over the head inside spoke. This looks like it puts way too much stress on the heads out spoke and as a result it would snap at the weakest part.

My questions to the thread:

1. Was the wheel incorrectly laced?
2. Not destressed properly?
3. Bad hub design that despite proper lacing creates a stress point?
4. Is there another explanation (like a bad spoke)?
5. What is the "proper" way to lace 2 cross drive side?

1. nope-laced correctly
2. probably and not tensioned correctly, what a surprise.
3. nope, poor build.
4. see above
5. Over/under is correct.

Listen to the forum, you won't be disappointed.

 

[biker77]

I have learned my lesson

The over under spoke lacing seems to create an unneccessary stress on the spokes. If the spokes did not do this they would be straight. What is the reason?

 

[Bespoke]

1. nope-laced correctly
2. probably and not tensioned correctly, what a surprise.
3. nope, poor build.
4. see above
5. Over/under is correct.

Listen to the forum, you won't be disappointed.

Yes. I did. Haven't checked in, in a while but: very happy. With everything really: wheels, as per Bustedknuckle and Giuseppe Magnetico's advice and, getting into cycling, in general.

 

[Giuseppe Magnetico]

I have learned my lesson

The over under spoke lacing seems to create an unneccessary stress on the spokes. If the spokes did not do this they would be straight. What is the reason?

Cross patterns must be interlaced because the spoke is leaving the hub at an angle. If you laced it cross without actually interlacing them the second you set off pedaling your wheel would taco.