::::~ Wheelbuilders thread ~::::

[Ruby60]

Google Spocalc

 

[Kimono]

Going to Dura Ace 11 sp

Apologies if this is a dumb question but I'm not a wheel builder nor do I play one on TV. Also sorry if this has been covered elsewhere on the thread.

I am planning to transition from Dura Ace 10 sp to 11 sp and am nearly 100% sure that my current hub won't work. Question is: Can I have my wheel "re-hubbed" with a new compatible 11 sp hub and if so, is it worth it vs. buying new wheels (original cost of my current wheels was USD 650 for the pair)? Any other considerations?

Looking at the DT Swiss 240 hub and I like my current rims well enough.

 

[simo1733]

Apologies if this is a dumb question but I'm not a wheel builder nor do I play one on TV. Also sorry if this has been covered elsewhere on the thread.

I am planning to transition from Dura Ace 10 sp to 11 sp and am nearly 100% sure that my current hub won't work. Question is: Can I have my wheel "re-hubbed" with a new compatible 11 sp hub and if so, is it worth it vs. buying new wheels (original cost of my current wheels was USD 650 for the pair)? Any other considerations?

Looking at the DT Swiss 240 hub and I like my current rims well enough.

Depending on what hub you have, you may just have to change the freehub.

 

[Kimono]

Depending on what hub you have, you may just have to change the freehub.

Il like that idea a lot. Problem is these are Rol Wheels d'Huez model which uses a "proprietary design" hub. So I don't know if it's truly a proprietary freehub design or some OEM design like DT Swiss or whatever. Any ideas on how to ID the freehub and whether or not a replacement could be made? Thanks for any help

 

[Bustedknuckle]

Apologies if this is a dumb question but I'm not a wheel builder nor do I play one on TV. Also sorry if this has been covered elsewhere on the thread.

I am planning to transition from Dura Ace 10 sp to 11 sp and am nearly 100% sure that my current hub won't work. Question is: Can I have my wheel "re-hubbed" with a new compatible 11 sp hub and if so, is it worth it vs. buying new wheels (original cost of my current wheels was USD 650 for the pair)? Any other considerations?

Looking at the DT Swiss 240 hub and I like my current rims well enough.

Your 10s shimano freehub on the ROL wheel will NOT accept a 11s DA cogset.

If the ROL hub uses a DT FH body, you CAN replace with a 11s one..and axle end..may have to redish the wheel. If it's unique to that hub(I think it is) cannot convert it unless ROL decides to have one made(unlikely, IMHO).

DT hubs, like 350 or 240 are now being shipped with the DA 11s FH body.

 

[biker jk]

does anyone know where do I find the specs for this hubs? flange spacing etc...

I believe Edco hubs are Bitex. Just go to the Bitex web site where they list the hubs by model number. The dimensions are provided. Your problem will be matching the Edco hub you want information on to the Bitex model number but shape and weight will provide some help.

 

[biker jk]

Here's a wheelset I built using the Kinlin 23mm wide rims, BHS hubs and Sapim CX-Ray spokes. 20 front spokes laced radially, 24 rear spokes laced 2X both sides. Brass nipples. Weight came in at 1490 grams. I weigh 150lbs.

 

[Bigsteppa20]

New wheels for an OLD bike...?

Hi Wheelbuilders,

Am going to get back on the bike again with the goal of finishing a Sprint distance Triathlon by the end of 2013.

This means that I need to re-engineer slightly my old (but oh so reliable and comfy) steel framed clunker with a new set of wheels that will be ideal for training and also racing at this low level, ie: strong but lighter than the no-name, tough as old boots and lots-a-spokes ones I have been commuting on for the last few years.

Am looking at a set of Mavic Ksyrium's (or Velocity deep V road) but the issue I have is that my bike is prehistoric in that I still run tube shifters vice STI.

I gather I will have to have the wheels built by someone who can supply 7sp Shimano hubs (if indeed they can be obtained?) because I have no desire to upgrade to STI for a few races at the most.

Are there any other issues that I might come across and if anyone can help, where might be the best place in Melbourne to have these wheels built?

All help will be greatly appreciated,
Cheers

 

[Bustedknuckle]

Hi Wheelbuilders,

Am going to get back on the bike again with the goal of finishing a Sprint distance Triathlon by the end of 2013.

This means that I need to re-engineer slightly my old (but oh so reliable and comfy) steel framed clunker with a new set of wheels that will be ideal for training and also racing at this low level, ie: strong but lighter than the no-name, tough as old boots and lots-a-spokes ones I have been commuting on for the last few years.

Am looking at a set of Mavic Ksyrium's (or Velocity deep V road) but the issue I have is that my bike is prehistoric in that I still run tube shifters vice STI.

I gather I will have to have the wheels built by someone who can supply 7sp Shimano hubs (if indeed they can be obtained?) because I have no desire to upgrade to STI for a few races at the most.

Are there any other issues that I might come across and if anyone can help, where might be the best place in Melbourne to have these wheels built?

All help will be greatly appreciated,
Cheers

If the frame is spaced at the rear to 126mm, have a decent bike shop 'cold set' the rear to 130mm..easy to do. THEN get any normal 8/9/10s rear hub based wheel, shimano compatible, add a spacer onto the FH body first, then the shimano 7s cogset and bob's yer uncle.

Also see a good wheelbuilder who can design and build a wheelset specifically for you and your needs.

 

[Giuseppe Magnetico]

A toast, with the champagne of rims... Happy New Year!

 

[Benotti69]

A toast, with the champagne of rims... Happy New Year!

Class

Many Happy Returns GM.

 

[LugHugger]

For the builders: I'm looking for a set of climbing/'light' wheels for use this summer. I'm interested in 23mm wide rims which I'll run with 23cc tyres in the mountains and 23/25cc f/r for other long tarmac rides. I weigh 75kgs.

I've seen a builder offering proprietary hubs + ti skewers built with the following specs:

H Plus Son Archetypes 20/24 f/r with Pillar PSR 1422 spokes and alloy nipples advertised at 1415g.

Cost seems reasonable at £395.

Appreciate any thoughts on these components and suitability for purpose or how the Archetype measure up against the A23?

 

[Giuseppe Magnetico]

For the builders: I'm looking for a set of climbing/'light' wheels for use this summer. I'm interested in 23mm wide rims which I'll run with 23cc tyres in the mountains and 23/25cc f/r for other long tarmac rides. I weigh 75kgs.

I've seen a builder offering proprietary hubs + ti skewers built with the following specs:

H Plus Son Archetypes 20/24 f/r with Pillar PSR 1422 spokes and alloy nipples advertised at 1415g.

Cost seems reasonable at £395.

Appreciate any thoughts on these components and suitability for purpose or how the Archetype measure up against the A23?

At that price the hubs are probably some rebranded Formulas, just like most everybody else does. Who is the builder, link? I could tell you about the hubs at a glance. Very nice spokes, the Pillar PSR series are some of the best on the market, right up there with anything Sapim and DT produce. The rims are pretty close, but I do prefer the H+Son Archetype over Velocity A23. H+Son has a better joining and machining process which makes an invisible seam, and the finish quality is second to none. Velocity has name recognition, ease of distribution in my case being in the US now, and tons of colors.

 

[LugHugger]

At that price the hubs are probably some rebranded Formulas, just like most everybody else does. Who is the builder, link? I could tell you about the hubs at a glance. Very nice spokes, the Pillar PSR series are some of the best on the market, right up there with anything Sapim and DT produce. The rims are pretty close, but I do prefer the H+Son Archetype over Velocity A23. H+Son has a better joining and machining process which makes an invisible seam, and the finish quality is second to none. Velocity has name recognition, ease of distribution in my case being in the US now, and tons of colors.

Link to builder here.

Haven't seen any discussion here on the use of veloplugs. Anybody have first hand experience of them? Thanks again.

 

[Giuseppe Magnetico]

Link to builder here.

Haven't seen any discussion here on the use of veloplugs. Anybody have first hand experience of them? Thanks again.

Yeah, they're Novatec or Bitex hubs. Nothing special, just run-of-the-mill Taiwan super cheapos, that's why the price is so attractive. Veloplugs work most of the time, but have heard of them causing pinch or abrasion flats. I like the idea of cotton tape as a barrier between the tube and the rim. If you're in a wet climate plastic rim strips work better.

 

[simo1733]

I have veloplugs on my Zipp 404s.No problems so far.

 

[Joachim]

To be honest, I don't think I'd pay £395 for a set of wheels with rebranded Formula or Novatech hubs.

For that sort of money you could have Ambrosio Excellight rims in something decent like Hope Pro 3 (they come with free earplugs), Dura-Ace or whatever you can find from DT Swiss

Excellights are light, but double-eyeletted. To give you an idea of price, built on Novatech hubs they are about £275

 

[Bustedknuckle]

For the builders: I'm looking for a set of climbing/'light' wheels for use this summer. I'm interested in 23mm wide rims which I'll run with 23cc tyres in the mountains and 23/25cc f/r for other long tarmac rides. I weigh 75kgs.

I've seen a builder offering proprietary hubs + ti skewers built with the following specs:

H Plus Son Archetypes 20/24 f/r with Pillar PSR 1422 spokes and alloy nipples advertised at 1415g.

Cost seems reasonable at £395.

Appreciate any thoughts on these components and suitability for purpose or how the Archetype measure up against the A23?

$650USD seems high using those hubs.

I'd bite the bullet, add 8 spokes(60 grams), use 24/28...use brass nipps and look for a DT 350 hubset( I think they come in 24h fronts).

Archtypes are nice but so are A23..and A23 now offset drilling rear(a good thing).

Still be in the 1450-1500 gram range..for somebody 82000 gram range(bike and rider, about), those less than 100 grams mean nada.

As for Veloplugs..if ya get a flat, and one pops out and ya lose it, you are SOL..Light rim strip, like Conti, better idea, IMHO.

 

[PCutter]

...For that sort of money you could have Ambrosio Excellight rims in something decent like Hope Pro 3 (they come with free earplugs)

That is my set up for my training wheels (+DT Revolution)...at 65kg, Excellight can be a training wheel for me...and once I got over the feeling I was being followed by a swarm of locusts every time I freewheeled have loved them.

GM - on the H+Son rims, I see they are anodised on the brake surface as well. Years ago I had Campag rims with anodised brake surface which rubbed off to be a mix of black and silver after some use...have you seen these rims after some k's? Does the anodising stay on the brake surface?

 

[Jukebox]

Just sharing some candy that's going out the door. White industries T11 hubs, H+Son TB14 rims, laced 32h 3x all around with DT Competitions and brass nipples. In eye blinding chrome of course.

 

[Giuseppe Magnetico]

GM - on the H+Son rims, I see they are anodised on the brake surface as well. Years ago I had Campag rims with anodised brake surface which rubbed off to be a mix of black and silver after some use...have you seen these rims after some k's? Does the anodising stay on the brake surface?

No, the anodizing will rub out eventually. Noticeable on the the black or gray rims, not the polished silver of course. Sorry for the late reply, been a helluva month. Back in MN for a month or two, have internet again finally.

 

[aphronesis]

Question for the builders.

I need to put together a new rear wheel for my fixed and will likely go with an h plus son archetype. Since I'm in England for the moment, a couple of friends and one builder have suggested that I consider going with Royce for the hub. Do you have any experience, thoughts, opinions on these relative to other higher end hubs?

 

[richwagmn]

No, the anodizing will rub out eventually. Noticeable on the the black or gray rims, not the polished silver of course. Sorry for the late reply, been a helluva month. Back in MN for a month or two, have internet again finally.

Just in time for some bad *** cold weather. ;-)

 

[Jukebox]

Question for the builders.

I need to put together a new rear wheel for my fixed and will likely go with an h plus son archetype. Since I'm in England for the moment, a couple of friends and one builder have suggested that I consider going with Royce for the hub. Do you have any experience, thoughts, opinions on these relative to other higher end hubs?

I have heard nothing but great things about Royce. Ive only played with a geared hub that was built into a wheel, but it was very smooth. I don't think you'll go wrong at all with that build.

 

[winkybiker]

Anyone have a recommendation for the best 36H 700C rims for loaded touring? I currently have some old DT Swiss rims that have been great, but are slowly but surely wearing out in the Vancouver winter. DT Swiss don't seem to do 36H anymore. I was wondering if their heavy-duty 32H options are really just as strong.