I don't mean to sound too high falutent, but having parked the car off Via Nazionale and not on the Pincio, as I usually do, my girlfriend and I walked down the Via 20 Settembre to the Scuderie del Quirinale to see the current exhibition on Filippino Lippi and Botticelli, which, as anyone who is familiar with Rome knows, is directly across from the president's mansion. As we approached the Piazza del Quirinale there was a throng of bystanders performing what seemed to be like some bizzare propitiatory rite directly in front of the president's palace, and in full view of the adjoining ministry: sacred chants, uncontrolable dancing, singing and generally behaving ecstatically as if beside themselves with some uncontainable joy. Something between the solemnity of a religious gathering, the fanfare of a political rally and the tifosi of a Giro stage in the Dolomites, gives you an idea of the atmosphere.
Of couse there were all the television reporters and cameramen and the carabinieri, to keep things from getting out of control, which was always, in the eyes of law enforcement, threatening.
Naturally we didn't walk around them, which wouldn't have allowed for an opportunity to closer inspection, but
right through them, being careful to take notice at all times of everything that was being said and done, and darkness permitting, not missing anything; like when drinking a glass of Brunello di Montepulciano. My girlfirend wanted to skirt the perimeter of the crowd, as the carabinieri had indicated us to do, but I insisted that we walk through them; among all the happy and overjoyed and
totally besides themselves with excitement people. In fact, one could even say, we didn't just observe them, but drank them in, being careful to discern and savor all the predominant flavors and subtle accents, nuances of scent and color, before crossing the Via 20 Settembre and entering the exhibition, which was our primary reason for being at the Quirinale as I have said. It was like opening up the shutters and letting sunlight into an apartment that had be kept dark for many years and bringing in fresh air that was inhaled to allow all the foul and maloderous air to be exhaled that had literally been killing us. It was like going to carnival after having been imprisonend not just for years, but decades.
When we came outside there was total chaos, even more chaos than one usually encounters in Rome, which is not just an ordinary chaotic city, but a world chaotic city, where everything is always disorderly and out of control. This only made the event more exceptional, I thought. Once again we moved through what by now were thousands and no longer hundreds of pedestrian bystanders, men, women and children, who came out to celebrate and make mischief right in front of the head of state's mansion; because Prime Minister Berlusconi had met with President Napolitano to consign his resignation papers and with all the conditions of his stepping down, which no doubt included, as he had stated in the dailies, leaving without being
humiliated.
There were several thousand Romans who turned up on this Saturday evening to make sure that Silvio Berlusconi would not have his last wish honored, which, after all, is rather light considering how it ended for Mussolini.



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http://www.repubblica.it/