Giro di Barmaher
Stage 17 Como to Tortona 191km
So we are well into our third week of the centenary Giro d’Italia, aka Giro di Barmaher, in honour of its illustrious overlord. We start from Como in Lombardy, and our route goes north to south through Lombardy, before finishing in Tortona (home of Coppi) in Piemonte.
This is a transitional stage, no other way of looking at it. And it is the best chance for the sprinters. But rather than making a beeline straight for Tortona, we are going to make our way through the Olrepo Pavese, for some nice scenery and some climbs to break up the bunch before a reduced brunch sprint.
Climbs
Cat 4 Rocca di Giorgi. 549m altitude. 5.8km @ 5%.
Cat 3 Passo Crocetta. 547m altitude. 3.6km @ 9.5%.
The riders will roll out from Como, the birthplace of Fabio Casartelli (RIP). His death was absolutely tragic, and I can’t believe it was over 20 years ago. One good thing to come from this is the rule that now forces all riders to wear a helmet when racing.
We move southwards towards Milan, which has seen the conclusion of many Giri d’Italia. This year, the Milanese will have to make do with just a TV sprint at the Duomo, and also the honour of one of its daughters being today’s Woman of the Stage.
On we go through Pavia, before we explore the countryside of the Oltrepo Pavese in the southernmost tip of Lombardy. Though frequently called the Tuscany of the North of Italy the Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardy is fairly unknown abroad.
The area offer several attractions: smooth hills, medieval villages and castles, panoramic views, authentic Italian food and local wines. The Oltrepò happens to be the largest wine producing area of Lombardy and one of the largest in Italy, especially of the Pinot Nero. The landscape is scattered with vineyards that are freely accessible for hikers or even mountain biking.
We are here for the hills, and we have a number of ascents to cope with in the last 50km today. We snake through these mountains and vineyards, with three or four uncategorised climbs and a category 3 and 4 ascent. This is not to be confused with the Passo Crocetta in Liguria or in Cosenza. But it is very tough for a sprinter, with slopes of 13-14% and an average of over 9%. Riders will have 25km to get back on to the bunch to contest a bunch sprint, assuming the breakaway is not given too much leeway. And they may not be, given the paucity of remaining opportunities for our burly speedsters.
The finish will take place in Tortona, which is the town in which Fausto Coppi (Il Campionissimo) settled with his mistress Giulia Occhini (the Woman in White). His grave is a short drive outside the city.
The city is a relatively non-descript, affluent satellite town of Milan, with a rich history and an unremarkable present.
Woman of the Stage
Caterina Riario Sforza de’ Medici, was an early prototype of the type of woman that gives me the hots. OK, perhaps disemboweling one’s enemies isn’t quite the modern method of anger management. But there’s much to admire, in our postfeminist times, about the so-called “Tigress of Forlì.” Caterina was bold, brave and big-hearted; she was adroit in diplomacy and dynamic on the battlefield. Even as her own people turned on her and both papal and ducal hallways echoed with plots against her, she managed to raise a brood of healthy (if bratty) children and fend off her enemies’ intrigue. She was a controversial figure: celebrated and admired, but also reviled and feared.
In The Prince, Machiavelli highlights Sforza’s unique character. His version of her actions after Riario’s assassination in 1488 did much to promote her reputation as a sexually bold and merciless ruler. By all accounts, when Sforza entered the Rocca di Ravaldino to facilitate its surrender to the rebels, she instead mounted the ramparts with the intention to rule and challenged her enemies to kill her children, who were hostages. According to Machiavelli, in the Discourses, she then lifted her skirts to reveal her genitals, a gesture meant to emphasize her claim that she could bear more children, who would eventually avenge Riario’s murder. This purported act is an exaggeration of her actions, but this version of the events remains influential as part of her legend.
Born in 1463, Caterina was the illegitimate child of Galeazzo Maria Sforza, heir to the duchy of Milan, but she lived in unparalleled luxury. Eager to unite the papal family to the duchy of Milan, Caterina’s father offered his 10-year-old daughter as a bride to 30-year-old Girolamo Riario, a debauched military man who happened to be the pope’s nephew. His marriage hastily consummated, Girolamo departed for Rome, leaving his bride to her father’s care for the next three years. It was only after her father was assassinated that 13-year-old Caterina was packed off to join her husband.
By 1482, the states of Italy were engulfed in war, and Caterina found herself humiliated by her husband’s shameful cowardice, as captain of the papal armies, in failing to defend Rome. Instead, he “whiled away the days playing dice with his soldiers on the high altar of the cathedral.” Now Caterina realised that despite her husband’s “ornately trimmed garments, nothing of substance existed within.”
While her husband was ill, Caterina was barred from one of Forlì’s most important fortresses. Despite being pregnant, she plotted the murder of the castle’s keeper and recaptured this prize. By the time her husband was assassinated, she was busy governing Forlì and fending off kidnappers and traitors. During one siege on her fortress, “the Venetian ambassador, floored by her audacity” when confronted by the spears and daggers aimed at her children, her sister and her mother, called her a tigress, “willing to eat her young to gain power.”
She was also, apparently, a tigress in love. Falling for Giacomo Feo, a glorified stable boy, she had him knighted, secretly married him and bore his child. Blinded by her passion, she ignored signs of growing unrest among her people — and the jealousy of her oldest son. When Feo was murdered, the sight of his mutilated corpse drove Caterina to systematic vengeance: 38 people were killed, and many others were tortured, exiled or imprisoned in a ruthless, coldblooded rampage.
Caterina was also involved in a plot and tried to poison Pope Alexander VI. Caterina was then captured and imprisoned in Castel Sant' Angelo for one year. Catarina died in 1509 at the age of 46. Renaissance men referred to Caterina as "the Virago," or women warrior, for all her accomplishments.
Munch for the Bunch
We are in Lombardy. I don’t care if there are four hard days ahead for the peloton. Riders are going to be given a plate of Risotto Milanese and Osscbucco. Risotto Milanese is risotto infused with saffron. And it is a traditional accompaniment to osso bucco. Osso bucco is a Milanese speciality of cross-cut veal shanks braised with vegetables, white wine and broth. Cooked slowly, it should fall apart if you even look at it.
Absolutely delicious.
10 second penalty for anybody not finishing their dinner!