Giro di Barmaher
Stage 6 Frosinone to Roma 202km
Those of you who aren’t being bored to tears by my long posts in this competition may remember that two of the design pillars I used in drawing my Giro were to visit every region in mainland Italy, and to pay homage to great Italian classics. With that in mind, we will spend the day in Lazio, our sixth region and Italy’s second most populated region, and we pay homage to the Giro del Lazio, with the same final kilometres most recently seen in Roma Maxima last year.
I picked this route as ideal for a first week in a Grand Tour. Enough climbing to make it interesting. Enough of a run-in to the finish to give sprinters a fighting chance. And it also takes in some interesting parts of this region of Italy. This stage could go to a sprinter, to a select group of quality riders, or to a brave attacker. Enjoy it, lads. Things are about to get a fair bit tougher.
For those unfamiliar with the Roma Maxima, it is a race with some tough climbing south of Rome, before a long descent into the Eternal city. This route will take in the three primary climbs of the most recent Roma Maxima route, which will offer the bunch ample opportunity to burn off the weaker climbers.
The final climb up Campi di Annibale contains two pitches of around 10% near the top, which is where Valverde pounced in 2014 before holding off the pack in a solo finish.
Climbs:
Cat 2 Rocca Massima 726m altitude, 9.7km @ 4.8%
Cat 4 Rocca Priora 709m altitude, 11km @3.6%
Cat 3 Campi di Annibale 698m altitude, 6km @ 5.8%
The riders will roll out of Frosinone, under the shadows of the impressive campanile.
Next up, we take a detour to the beautiful town of Ferentino so we can look at the ancient fortifications and the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore.
The scenery from here remains beautiful. We go through the Parco Regionale dei Castelli Romani, lots of beautiful pics I could put here, but here is the Savelli Castle in Rocca Priora.
Then down past Castel Gandolfo, which is a real weekend retreat destination for rich Romans. Absolute beauty by the shores of Lake Albano.
And what can we say about Rome? We finish near the Colloseum. Bellisimo!
Woman of the Stage
One is spoiled for choice when picking famous Romans. But for me, there was no choice. Ever since I learned about the life and work of Artemisia Gentileschi. Operating in the middle to early 17th century, she was an Italian Baroque painter, who is considered one of the most accomplished painters in her generation. In an era when women painters were not easily accepted by the artistic community or patrons, she was the first woman to become a member of the Accademia di Arte del Disegno in Florence. She painted many pictures of strong and suffering women from myth and the Bible, with a penchant for violent subject matter.
Her best-known work is Judith Slaying Holofernes (a well-known medieval and baroque subject in art), which "shows the decapitation of Holofernes, a scene of horrific struggle and blood-letting”. That she was a woman painting in the seventeenth century and that she was raped and participated in prosecuting the rapist, long overshadowed her achievements as an artist. For many years she was regarded as a curiosity. Today she is regarded as one of the most progressive and expressionist painters of her generation.
If you have a few moments to spare, read about her. She is an inspiration. Here is one of her self-portraits.
Munch for the Bunch
Many of the best Roman dishes are variants of food from the heady days of the Empire. And none more so than today’s offering, coda alla vaccinara. Oxtail is parboiled and then simmered with large amounts of celery (there should be 1.5 kilo of celery for every kilo of tail), carrots, and aromatic herbs. Tomatoes and red wine are added, and then the mixture is cooked further with a soffritto of onions, garlic, prosciutto, pancetta and some other ingredients. Theail should be cooked such a long time with more celery, so that meat easily separates from the bones. It is seasoned with cinnamon, nutmeg, and black pepper and garnished with pine nuts. In the words of Giacinto Mazzatella in Down and Dirty:
“Oxtail and celery are like man and woman. It's all well when one sticks to the other."