Giro di Barmaher
Stage 20 Ivrea to Pila 199km
The final road stage of this Giro. And the second mountain-top finish. Along with the second Dolomites stage, this is one of the twin queen stages. This stage visits what I see as an underused part of Italy. The Aosta Valley offers many serious climbs, some ski stations for high finishes and most importantly, even a novice like me finds it easy to link together climbs without too much flat in between.
Riders will be transferred up the motorway from Turin to the stage start in Ivrea. They can leave their phone chargers and dirty magazines in the hotel, as they will be back to Turin tonight. A savage run of climbs awaits the bunch, before a finish in Pila. Pila has hosted the Giro before, and is the kind of finish that should be used more in Giri. The climb more or less starts in a major town, so it will be easy for spectators to get there. The ideal amphitheatre for the last Saturday of a major tour. We have a short ITT tomorrow, but I don’t think it will affect today’s stage too much. If you are in top form, you can grab pink today, or put your opponents out of commission.
Climbs
Cat 1 Colle di Joux. 1631m altitude. 22.5km @ 5.6%
Cat 1 Colle di Saint Panthaleon 1640m altitude. 17km @ 6.6%
Cat 1 Saint Barthelemy 1644m altitude. 18.1km @ 6.2%
Cat 2 Lin-Noir 1424m altitude. 11km @ 7.5%
Cat 1 Pila 1853m altitude. 17km @ 7.1%
Whew!
Ivrea is situated on the road leading to the Aosta Valley (part of the medieval Via Francigena), it straddles the Dora Baltea and is regarded as the centre of the Canavese area. Ivrea lies in a basin that in prehistoric times formed a great lake. Today a number of five smaller lakes — Sirio, San Michele, Pistono, Nero and Campagna — are found in the area around the town. During the 20th century its primary claim to fame was as the base of operations for Olivetti, a manufacturer of typewriters, mechanical calculators and, later, computers. The Olivetti company no longer has an independent existence, though its name still appears as a registered trademark on office equipment manufactured by others. Most recently in the Giro, Benat Intxausti won a 2-up spint in a stage in 2013.
Riders will have a 30km northward ride in the valley before they hit the first climb of the day. The Colle di Joux was a staple in Giri in the 60s and 70s. Looking back through the annals, it has never been a particularly pivotal climb, such as the last time it was used when Amador won a stage with the Joux in 2012. Once again, I would expect this to be a leg softener. Nearby, I could have used the Tzecore, which has steeper ramps, but I would prefer to save a climb like that for a Giro stage where it is decisive. Instead, we have the Joux, which is a long, punishing drag with a flat section in the middle.
After a fast descent, there is not much chance for a rest. The road will point upwards again, for another bruiser. This is the Saint-Panthaleon, which sees over 1100m of vertical gain over 17 kilometres. This climb was used in this year’s Giro. Movistar seem to love this area; Visconti was the first man over the top of this col, in a stage where Aru nabbed a minute over Contador. A bit more exciting was during this climb in 1997, when Tonkov marked Leblanc while Gotti sailed off into the sunset . Gotti effectively won the Giro that day.
No time for messing around. Another climb is coming, And yes, you’ve guessed it. Another long, punishing grinder. Quintana and Aru would be in their element in this stage. What would you like, Nairo? Multi-climb stage in the last week of a Grand Tour without too many steep pitches. You got it! Again, this climb was scaled by Visconti in the Giro this spring. Libertine will probably tell me it has been used multiple other times, but I can just see it this year.
But let’s not downplay this climb. The first 7km at over 8%, and totalling 16km at nearly 7%.
Riders will ride into Aosta for a TV sprint. Rather than head to Pila, we are going to detour to the Lin-Noir, as it links slightly better with the final climb, and also has some nasty gradients near the top. I bet you a dollar to doughnuts that there will be some GC action in the final 5km of this climb, which averages 8.4%, with section over 14%.
Another technical descent follows. Then around 6km of flat.
Then we have the highlight of my Giro, the climb to Pila ski station for the stage finish.
Pila has a special place in my heart. As a kid, I grew up idolising Sean Kelly and Stephen Roche. And Pila was the climb where Roche sealed the Giro, the first and most stressful leg of his triple crown in 1987. It was the twenty-first stage to Pila that year that Roche showed he was deserving of the maglia rosa when he, Robert Millar and Marino Lejarreta broke clear and arrived in Pila over two minutes ahead of the first group of chasers. Here you can see Roche climbing this ascent 28 years ago.
It is a long, tough climb with no real flat sections. I have tried to make this Giro as humane as possible. You may recall this is only my second MTF, and only my fourth really tough mountain stage (one in the Apennines, Zoncolan and one in the Dolomites). But when this Giro hits hard, it will really smack the riders in the mouth. Riders are going to be spread across the road like in 1987. I would say the chances of riders riding defensively for a short (but tough enough) ITT tomorrow is minimal.
Woman of the Stage
La Mugnaia, Ivrea.
Ivrea hosts the Battle of the Oranges every February, and is a festival which includes a tradition of throwing of oranges between organized groups. It is the largest food fight in Italy. One of the citizens is elected Mugnaia, and is dressed as shown in the picture above. Legend has it that a miller's daughter (la "Mugnaia") called Violetta once refused to accept the "right" of the local duke to spend a night with each newlywed woman and cut his head off.
The core celebration is based on a locally famous Battle of the Oranges that involves some thousands of townspeople, divided into nine combat teams, who throw oranges at each other – with considerable violence – during the traditional carnival days: Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. The carnival takes place in February: it ends on the night of Shrove Tuesday with a solemn funeral. Traditionally, at the end of the silent march that closes the carnival the "General" says goodbye to everyone with the classical phrase in dialect "arvedse a giobia a ‘n bot", translated as "we'll see each other on Thursday at one", referring to the Thursday the carnival will start the next year. Today the carriages represent the king's fortress and the orange throwers the revolutionaries.
Munch for the Bunch
Less than 20 kilometres to go for the bunch. And for all but around twenty of the remaining riders, tomorrow is just about getting to the line within the cutoff. So we will give them something nice as their work in Italy is almost done.
The regional food of the Aosta Valley can be described as a simple but traditional cuisine composed of hearty, creative and authentic flavours. Due to it’s position in the extreme North West of the country, the Aosta Valley mixes some of the best of traditional Italian food with a healthy dose of mountain flavours and ingredients.
Unsurprisingly, meat and cheese make a big part of the cuisine in this region, given the tradition of farming and hunting. So here you go with today’s dish, veal Ribs with Fontina cheese. This munch has an intense flavor, typical of the Aosta Valley.
Fontina is one of the most famous and ancient Italian cheeses. A parchment document from the 13th century shows how Fontina was made. It is a semi-hard cheese, made exclusively from milk from a special variety of cow from the Aosta Valley and has been made using the same recipe for centuries. The cheese must be aged for three months in caves dug out from rock, requiring constant work on behalf of the cheesemakers.
Fontina cheese slices are inserted into the meat. Then the veal chops are dipped in flour, then bread, then seasoned and cooked in abundant butter. Until they become golden crunchy. Serve hot with melted butter.
And a glass of red wine from one of the vineyards near Arvier.