There was a thread with similar title - but it became a thread about one particular argument about pedaling technique. So, now that topic (uncoupled cranks, specifically Powercranks), has its own thread, so the people who want to discuss that narrow topic can do so - and there are people who seem to enjoy that argument.
This thread is for a general discussion of pedaling technique. A few posts here and there discussing uncoupled cranks will be tolerated, but the uncouple crank topic has its own thread. So, continuing on about them will be considered off-topic. Off-topic posts are covered in the forum rules.
But pedaling technique IS important. Early in our cycling lives, we heard the "spin, don't mash" mantra. I don't recall who it was, but one cyclist turned coach said he got best results from trying to hit the handlebars with his knees, rather than focusing on "pulling through" with your foot.
When I raced, I used a traditional Euro-pro method of making sure my stroke was smooth - I spent a month early each year on a fixed gear bike. It definitely helped me improve my ability to reach higher cadences - when you hit 140 rpm and start bouncing on the saddle on a fixed gear, it can get dangerous to your health! Actually, I would usually start the fixed gear month each year, at somewhere between 100 and 120 as my top cadence without bouncing on the saddle. By the month end, I would be kicking over 140, although I think I only ever hit 150 a couple of times.
Just a quick mention here - if uncoupled cranks DO have any benefit to pedaling technique, I think it would be like that offered by riding a fixed gear. I.e. you get instant physical feedback that your pedaling is not smooth. (Now, see? That was a mention, not a whole post, get the idea?)
Btw - if you are interested in using a fixed gear - you can set up a fixed gear rig extremely cheaply - if you can get your hands on a decent used frame. It doesn't even have to be a "good" frame - although I think it might have been easier back when steel frames were more common. Then you could pick something halfway decent off the trash that was close to your size. Check out Sheldon Brown's pages on fixed gear rigs for more on how to do this. You'll note he says you don't have to have a track dropout - and very few riders will need a track dropout in the rear. My fixed gear is an old "Panasonic" steel frame, standard road dropouts.
On the other hand, today, with fixed gear being popular, you might be able to find something used, too, eh?
I'll let somebody else tell us why pedaling techique is important - this post is already long enough.
Cheers - h
This thread is for a general discussion of pedaling technique. A few posts here and there discussing uncoupled cranks will be tolerated, but the uncouple crank topic has its own thread. So, continuing on about them will be considered off-topic. Off-topic posts are covered in the forum rules.
But pedaling technique IS important. Early in our cycling lives, we heard the "spin, don't mash" mantra. I don't recall who it was, but one cyclist turned coach said he got best results from trying to hit the handlebars with his knees, rather than focusing on "pulling through" with your foot.
When I raced, I used a traditional Euro-pro method of making sure my stroke was smooth - I spent a month early each year on a fixed gear bike. It definitely helped me improve my ability to reach higher cadences - when you hit 140 rpm and start bouncing on the saddle on a fixed gear, it can get dangerous to your health! Actually, I would usually start the fixed gear month each year, at somewhere between 100 and 120 as my top cadence without bouncing on the saddle. By the month end, I would be kicking over 140, although I think I only ever hit 150 a couple of times.
Just a quick mention here - if uncoupled cranks DO have any benefit to pedaling technique, I think it would be like that offered by riding a fixed gear. I.e. you get instant physical feedback that your pedaling is not smooth. (Now, see? That was a mention, not a whole post, get the idea?)
Btw - if you are interested in using a fixed gear - you can set up a fixed gear rig extremely cheaply - if you can get your hands on a decent used frame. It doesn't even have to be a "good" frame - although I think it might have been easier back when steel frames were more common. Then you could pick something halfway decent off the trash that was close to your size. Check out Sheldon Brown's pages on fixed gear rigs for more on how to do this. You'll note he says you don't have to have a track dropout - and very few riders will need a track dropout in the rear. My fixed gear is an old "Panasonic" steel frame, standard road dropouts.
On the other hand, today, with fixed gear being popular, you might be able to find something used, too, eh?
I'll let somebody else tell us why pedaling techique is important - this post is already long enough.
Cheers - h