::::~ Wheelbuilders thread ~::::

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Mar 13, 2009
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Case for tubs on the road, weight of wheels, and tyres much lower, zipp 404 tubs 1278+460=1738 with conti comps, or zipp clincher with conti (force attack) and inner 1557+400+130=2087 difference 350g
fewer flats, tradition.

Case for clinchers lower rolling resistance,

Feel of cornering can be argued, possibly road teams use a track glue which would lower the rolling resistance.

For the average chump, clinchers roll significantly faster.

EDIT: actually for a marketing spin tyre companies take note, take vittoria for example they could say their equivalent clincher roll 40% faster. Like all marketers a little loose with definitions and point of reference and some will be thinking they'll be riding almost half their times for a TT. When in reality it'll be measured in seconds.
 
Mar 19, 2009
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When the question of tubulars come up I always point to '95 World Champs, no way Olano wins that on a flat clincher. Regardless of what people are saying about weight, rolling resistance, etc, the biggie is safety. When a tubular goes flat it basically wraps around the rim and you can safely ride to a stop, flat on a clincher and the slightest mistake you'll be skating around on your rim.
 
Jun 15, 2010
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RDV4ROUBAIX said:
Ah, a lightweight that's hard on equipment. Have a friend that I rode and raced with through most of my 20's that's the same way, in fact he trains daily on 36h wheels. You can have lightweight high spoke count wheels built, I do this all the time, go custom instead of buying off the shelf that's one-size-fits-all and you'll be much happier.

For your rear wheel I wouldn't put you on anything less than a 32h.

What are Rolf wheels like? Are they very delicate/flexible having such a low spoke count
 
Mar 13, 2009
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Oops, note to mads didn't mean that feel free to split the clinch/tubs because I want to add more opinions but I will not cause this thread go further OT
 
RDV4ROUBAIX said:
When the question of tubulars come up I always point to '95 World Champs, no way Olano wins that on a flat clincher. Regardless of what people are saying about weight, rolling resistance, etc, the biggie is safety. When a tubular goes flat it basically wraps around the rim and you can safely ride to a stop, flat on a clincher and the slightest mistake you'll be skating around on your rim.

He meant he won on a flat tubular....
 
Nov 6, 2009
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hi lads

looking for some advice Re wheelbuilding

im a biggish lad, i hover between 80 and 85kg.

so im looking for something for racing

preferably something slightly more aero than normal, maybe in and around 30mm deep.

ive no idea on rims or anything, my benchmark would be something strong, reliable, good for racing, and not super heavy either

any ideas?

sorry for sounding lazy, but i honestly havent a clue on wheel building
 
Mar 13, 2009
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In 30 mm Velocity Deep V is one of the most popular, know loks of jguys rolling on them and happy

My training wheels (picture in my Avatar) are Reyonlds Solitude, which are 32mm and you can buy the rim separate. I have found them excellent, I am a 195cm tall 90 kg Sprinter, so I am not easy on the gear. 4 years and only broke 3 spokes, one from a freak accident (ran over a TEK screw that went through the tyre, then through the hole in the rim to impact directly on the nippple - if it had of not got the hole it would have gone through the rim!)
Previous "Big M Name" wheels required constant true adjustment and broke way too many spokes.

That is just my personal experience, but RDV or Busted Knuckle are pros, so will have wider knowledge
 
Nov 6, 2009
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You where blessed with that tek screw, you could try that a million times and never get that lucky again

Reynolds rims would be an excellent idea, I never even though of that, a good quality proven rim

I was tempted to get a half decent carbon rim but I plan on doing the marmotte next year with them, only a friend did it this year and melted his dura ace carbon rims on the first decent, and also seen a guy melt his brand new 404's as well, so I think I'll stick with alloy

Btw, did you buy your rims on the web, or from a lbs?
 
chrisb said:
hi lads

looking for some advice Re wheelbuilding

im a biggish lad, i hover between 80 and 85kg.

so im looking for something for racing

preferably something slightly more aero than normal, maybe in and around 30mm deep.

ive no idea on rims or anything, my benchmark would be something strong, reliable, good for racing, and not super heavy either

any ideas?

sorry for sounding lazy, but i honestly havent a clue on wheel building

Kinlin rims, 30mm width, appropriate hubs(shimano/sram or Campagnolo), thin-ish spokes front and left side rear, DT comp-type right side rear. Probably 28 2 cross front and 32 3 cross rear, built well.

If ya got big $, carbon rims, tubular, less spokes.
 
Nov 6, 2009
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Bustedknuckle said:
Kinlin rims, 30mm width, appropriate hubs(shimano/sram or Campagnolo), thin-ish spokes front and left side rear, DT comp-type right side rear. Probably 28 2 cross front and 32 3 cross rear, built well.

If ya got big $, carbon rims, tubular, less spokes.

thanks alot busted knuckle

would you recommend anywhere on the internet that do this kind of build?
 
Nov 6, 2009
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Bustedknuckle said:
No. I'd look around where you are and look for that wheelbuilding 'GURU", who can design and build this or something similar.

Where are you?

Ireland,

so more than likely ill have to look towards the UK or Germany
 
chrisb said:
Ireland,

so more than likely ill have to look towards the UK or Germany

No grouchy, old wheelbuilders in Ireland??

Gotta be..do a google search for bike shops in your area, visit a few, talk to a few older guys(stay away from the bike shop children) and you'll find one.

Afterall Sean Kelly and Stephen Roche and now Nicolas..Irish....
 
Nov 6, 2009
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Bustedknuckle said:
No grouchy, old wheelbuilders in Ireland??

Gotta be..do a google search for bike shops in your area, visit a few, talk to a few older guys(stay away from the bike shop children) and you'll find one.

Afterall Sean Kelly and Stephen Roche and now Nicolas..Irish....

cycle shops we have in abundance, perhaps even bigger and better than the UK,

but very few wheelbuilders, i know one guy, he builds a good wheel, but he doesnt buy the products in, you have to supply your own, so then you have the problem of not buying the correct spokes, or nipples, you know the niggly bits.

but dont worry, ill find somewhere,

google is my friend, and my friend is always willing to lend a hand :D
 
Mar 13, 2009
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chrisb said:
You where blessed with that tek screw, you could try that a million times and never get that lucky again

Reynolds rims would be an excellent idea, I never even though of that, a good quality proven rim

I was tempted to get a half decent carbon rim but I plan on doing the marmotte next year with them, only a friend did it this year and melted his dura ace carbon rims on the first decent, and also seen a guy melt his brand new 404's as well, so I think I'll stick with alloy

Btw, did you buy your rims on the web, or from a lbs?
Definitely dreak accident, you couldn't do it if you tried!

Both my Reynolds (race on 46mm Carbon Tubulars - DVT) were per factory, just unboxed them, check the tension and went for it, the spec suited me with DT240 hubs, the only PITA is the nipples are internal

Somewhere like Wheelbuilder.com for parts, but I am sure any Reynolds dealer will be able to help
 
Mar 10, 2009
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chrisb said:
ok lads, im after one more bit of advice to help in the selection process

how do you guys rate these Velocity A23 build wheels from Strada?

http://www.stradawheels.co.uk/shop/velocity-a23-wheelset/

or for the more aero feel, there's these

http://www.stradawheels.co.uk/shop/tt-tri-alloy-wheelset/

i've just had a set of major tom's (the tub version of the a23) delivered by strada for the cross season. 32h built 3x with sapim race, so far i've only given them a very short 3 mile commute on local gravel tracks but they're far more solid with less lateral flex than my 32h 2x sapim lasers on mavic reflex rims. i'm 75-80kgs depending on how recently i ate my xmas dinner :eek: i haven't weighed them but i think that they're approx 1625g for the pair.
 
LugHugger said:
i've just had a set of major tom's (the tub version of the a23) delivered by strada for the cross season. 32h built 3x with sapim race, so far i've only given them a very short 3 mile commute on local gravel tracks but they're far more solid with less lateral flex than my 32h 2x sapim lasers on mavic reflex rims. i'm 75-80kgs depending on how recently i ate my xmas dinner :eek: i haven't weighed them but i think that they're approx 1625g for the pair.

No surprise there. In the 'no such thing as a free lunch' department, 2 cross with thin spokes when compared to 3 cross and thicker spokes makes for a lighter but flexier wheel. 2 cross when compared to 3 cross on 32 hole, the weigh differences amounts to about 1 spoke and nipple...
 
Mar 10, 2009
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Bustedknuckle said:
No surprise there. In the 'no such thing as a free lunch' department, 2 cross with thin spokes when compared to 3 cross and thicker spokes makes for a lighter but flexier wheel. 2 cross when compared to 3 cross on 32 hole, the weigh differences amounts to about 1 spoke and nipple...

yep, i got greedy for gram savings. stupid. lesson learned. :eek:
 
Mar 10, 2009
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Bustedknuckle said:
No surprise there. In the 'no such thing as a free lunch' department, 2 cross with thin spokes when compared to 3 cross and thicker spokes makes for a lighter but flexier wheel. 2 cross when compared to 3 cross on 32 hole, the weigh differences amounts to about 1 spoke and nipple...

out of curiosities sake, do you have any thoughts on by what degree a 3x wheel is stiffer than a 2x wheel?
 
LugHugger said:
out of curiosities sake, do you have any thoughts on by what degree a 3x wheel is stiffer than a 2x wheel?

23%, exactly 23%..just kidding, I don't know but it's silly to build a 32h wheel anything but 3 cross..I've seen some 1 cross, 32, that's really silly. Does nuthin to make the wheel better.
 
Aug 13, 2009
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Bustedknuckle said:
Boyd or 'put name of asianwheelmakerhere. Source this stuff in Taiwan or China, pay little or nuthin(they make stuff for scads of 'wheelbuild companys'), get a warehouse and fancy stickers and a couple of youngsters to build wheels and you are a high end wheel building company. Yep, many use Sapim spokes but a hamburger in another package is still a hamburger.

Since the hubs and rims are so inexpensive, there is big $ to be made here...wait a couple of months and more than a few will be gone, only to be replaced by some new ones...

If ya want a throw away wheelset, pay little, smash it around, throw it away, repeat, like some $300 cross frames, hard to beat.

Who makes these rims?

I agree. Boyd, and the rest, look like the same rims......and they all look like the same stuff Deng Fu, LT, and Yishun offer.

Are these all Gigantex rims? Who is the best source for them? Would love some Enves but they are out of my price range.