::::~ Wheelbuilders thread ~::::

[Black Dog]

Hi there!

Why front hub on Campy Zonda is having that lag motion, i mean my older wheels had better hub or what, pay them 400 euro and front hub is s...!

What do you mean by lag motion.? I have a set of Zondas that came with a bike I bought and they roll very smoothly. I did adjust the cones to make them just right. Perhaps they are in need of an adjustment. To go on and on...a hand built set of wheels is your best bet.

 

[STODRR]

The biggest downfall of the cheapo wheel Co.'s are the hubs. It's no wonder they also sell replacement bearings on the site too, assuming that the end user has a cartridge bearing puller and press. Pretty sure these Neuvation hubs are made by the same company in Taiwan that makes American Classic hubs. And what are Am Classic known for?... crap hubs.

Neutral service, fine. Long lasting durable training wheels, fail. One last point is that when people chime in on how fantastic brand z,x, or y wheelset is going for them, when you ask how much they weigh it's usually some 140 pounder that couldn't wear anything out no matter how much they tried.

Thanks, I am in real need of a good training front wheel. I ride about 150-200 miles a month and weight 165. What would you suggest. I don't know enough about different components to order a custom one one.

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

Thanks, I am in real need of a good training front wheel. I ride about 150-200 miles a month and weight 165. What would you suggest. I don't know enough about different components to order a custom one one.

Front only? Have your LBS to build up a Shimano Ultegra or 105 hub to some Mavic, Ambrosio, Velocity, DT, Kinlin, or what ever rim floats yer boat. Go to your bike shop and have them show you stuff. Good luck!

 

[STODRR]

Front only? Have your LBS to build up a Shimano Ultegra or 105 hub to some Mavic, Ambrosio, Velocity, DT, Kinlin, or what ever rim floats yer boat. Go to your bike shop and have them show you stuff. Good luck!

Thanks. Small town and shop is mostly for mountain bikers and commuters and doesn't seem to know much about wheels. I tried to call custom builders but they asked so many questions about what parts and what not and I don't have enough knowledge on the parts to put a wheel together. One guys kept saying this or that was crap when ever I mentioned something but would never give his opinion he would just keep saying it depends, which is true, but if I knew everything about wheels what would we need wheels builders for.

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

Thanks. Small town and shop is mostly for mountain bikers and commuters and doesn't seem to know much about wheels. I tried to call custom builders but they asked so many questions about what parts and what not and I don't have enough knowledge on the parts to put a wheel together. One guys kept saying this or that was crap when ever I mentioned something but would never give his opinion he would just keep saying it depends, which is true, but if I knew everything about wheels what would we need wheels builders for.

Boondocks eh. Threw me for a loop because you first inquired about sets, then only a front wheel. If the later is true then grab whatever is out there, front wheels don't really burn out that quick even if they're lower quality. 150-200 miles a month at your weight isn't going to wear anything out, especially a front wheel. What's your rear wheel by the way?

 

[STODRR]

Boondocks eh. Threw me for a loop because you first inquired about sets, then only a front wheel. If the later is true then grab whatever is out there, front wheels don't really burn out that quick even if they're lower quality. 150-200 miles a month at your weight isn't going to wear anything out, especially a front wheel. What's your rear wheel by the way?

I have a mavic open pro with a power tap on it that is why I don't really need to rear training wheel but I won't stick that wheel in the neutral wheel car. My front is a EA 90TT with a I believe a ultegra hub. It is getting pretty crunchy on rides. Has about 10,000 miles on it. by the way when I started riding 3 years ago I weighed 195 so there is some wear and tear on it.

Yes boondocks but great riding out here

 

[rich00]

Wheel tolerance

Hi all,

Just a question on how much tolerance should be allowed when truing wheels. In this case an open pro rim on a 105 hub being used on a commuter bike. I can get the lateral true to about 0.5mm but the radial true is trickier especially around the join or valve, in this case it's about 1.5mm to 2mm. I know even tension is more important than trying to get a wheel perfectly true. Any thoughts ?

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

Hi all,

Just a question on how much tolerance should be allowed when truing wheels. In this case an open pro rim on a 105 hub being used on a commuter bike. I can get the lateral true to about 0.5mm but the radial true is trickier especially around the join or valve, in this case it's about 1.5mm to 2mm. I know even tension is more important than trying to get a wheel perfectly true. Any thoughts ?

Vertical truing is always a bit trickier than lateral, and you're almost always going to have a slight variation in tolerance at the seam. You have to make the determination to how much variance is allowed in correcting a hop at the seam, you can only do so much until you have to leave it alone. Since you're dealing with a wheel that's already built up to tension and ridden, make for certain that you're not dealing with any dents in the rim from potholes and such, which will give you fits when trying to get even tension agian.

Here's a method that will work if you have high spots. Before you start clean your wheel and lube the nipple seats. Find your high spots and loosen all the nipples around them by half a turn, sort of a backwards true until you get round again, go back a couple cycles to about minus one full turn constantly checking vertical trueness. This should be sufficient, but if you still have a high spot, tighten the nipple at the highest point and work outwards from it, less tightening as you go away from the center of the trouble spot. You can even over tighten at the high spot and come back a bit. Once you break free of the egg shape, start tensioning back up again and making all your corrections to what's worse through each cycle, trueness and tension, until you arrive back to your original tension. Stay patient and focused to what you're doing and it will work out just fine.

 

[gingerwallaceafro]

Any advice on the most cost-effective way to build a sub 1000 gram climbing wheelset for a 74 kg rider would be most appreciated please!

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

Any advice on the most cost-effective way to build a sub 1000 gram climbing wheelset for a 74 kg rider would be most appreciated please!

No such thing as a sub 1000g wheel set that is cost-effective. However, there are 1200-1400g sets that can be had for less than a grand, which is plenty light for climbing.

 

[LugHugger]

OK, going for my first set of hand builts. Most of my riding is 2-3 hours in the saddle ave 32-40kph/20-25mph, rolling countryside, lots of 60-80m hills 500m-2km long. I'm riding SRAM components, a fillet brazed steel frame. Am on Mavic SL Premiums at the moment (with no issues!) and I'm wondering if deep section 'aero' rims (carbon or alloy) are recommended and if they would deliver the 'aero' benefits promised by the marketeers? I won't be going for tubs. Leaving aside any budgetary constraints for the time being, I'd welcome any thoughts or recommendations.

Me again! Ok, based on comments I decided to stick with what I have, especially since I would only have a couple of months on new wheels before the rain returns and the crap starts spewing off the fields! So, I've returned to a long-term project and re-started my single speed cross bike. So.....

Any recommendations for 130mm singlespeed freewheel only hubs? The frame is a Kona Major One with track ends. Chris King and White Industries spring to mind at the premium end but would appreciate your thoughts on other suggestions. Likely that they will be laced 32 spoke, 2/3 cross to Ambrosio Nemesis'.

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

Me again! Ok, based on comments I decided to stick with what I have, especially since I would only have a couple of months on new wheeles before the rain returns and the crap starts spewing off the fields! So, I've returned to a long-term project and re-started my single speed cross bike. So.....

Any recommendations for 130mm singlespeed freewheel only hubs? The frame is a Kona Major One with track ends. Chris King and White Industries spring to mind at the premium end but would appreciate your thoughts on other suggestions. Likely that they will be laced 32 spoke, 2/3 cross to Ambrosio Nemesis'.

Wow! SS with tubualrs, cool. I'm assuming this will be a SS CX race set up. Stick with traditional high flange track style hubs, dishless wheels are stronger.

As far as SS hubs go, you could also take a hard look at Paul Comp, and Phil Wood. Both have track hubs spaced to 130mm. There are cheap Asian track hubs to be had, but would seem out of place on a set like this.

 

[LugHugger]

Wow! SS with tubualrs, cool. I'm assuming this will be a SS CX race set up. Stick with traditional high flange track style hubs, dishless wheels are stronger.

As far as SS hubs go, you could also take a hard look at Paul Comp, and Phil Wood. Both have track hubs spaced to 130mm. There are cheap Asian track hubs to be had, but would seem out of place on a set like this.

Ah! The voice of reason! Yep, SS CX is where I'm going with this! One thing I've wondered about fixed/free flip-flop hubs - if you don't use a lock ring on the fixed side does that make the hub a free/free?

'Scuse my ignorance

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

Ah! The voice of reason! Yep, SS CX is where I'm going with this! One thing I've wondered about fixed/free flip-flop hubs - if you don't use a lock ring on the fixed side does that make the hub a free/free?

'Scuse my ignorance

The freewheel side threads are the same as the gear threads on a fixed side, and it's possible to run a freewheel on it. You'd only be using half of threads available on a regular freewheel side, though I've known many who have done it with no problems, even racing.

 

[LugHugger]

The freewheel side threads are the same as the gear threads on a fixed side, and it's possible to run a freewheel on it. You'd only be using half of threads available on a regular freewheel side, though I've known many who have done it with no problems, even racing.

So, if I understand correctly, on a fixed/free hub there are an equal number of threads on both sides of the hub. but, if you were running one side fixed, the lock ring would be wound on some of these threads meaning that the fixed sprocket is thinner than a free wheel and runs on fewer threads. or are there more threads on the fixed side to compensate for the lock ring? i ask since my under-grad mechanics is long forgotten if there are more threads on the fixed side to accommodate the lock ring and you run a freewheel ie no lock ring, is there a risk of the freewheel unthreading or does the chain maintain the tension at the inboard end of the thread as the wheel spins?

i'm not sure that this post makes any sense and is probably way diversionary. my head hurts

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

So, if I understand correctly, on a fixed/free hub there are an equal number of threads on both sides of the hub.

Not quite about a 3mm difference

but, if you were running one side fixed, the lock ring would be wound on some of these threads meaning that the fixed sprocket is thinner than a free wheel and runs on fewer threads. or are there more threads on the fixed side to compensate for the lock ring?

see exhibit A

i ask since my under-grad mechanics is long forgotten if there are more threads on the fixed side to accommodate the lock ring and you run a freewheel ie no lock ring, is there a risk of the freewheel unthreading or does the chain maintain the tension at the inboard end of the thread as the wheel spins?

Freehweel spins on with a right side turn so it eventually locks in place and won't unthread if you freewheel.

i'm not sure that this post makes any sense and is probably way diversionary. my head hurts

Take a flip flop and call me in the morning.

 

[LugHugger]

OK, so now I have a White Industries MI5 front and ENO single rear and a pair of Nemesis Le Reine du Nord rims. These will finish off a CX race bike. Do I ask my friendly local wheel builder to 2x or 3x? 3x the drive side rear? They're going to be race wheels - any spoke recommendations?

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

OK, so now I have a White Industries MI5 front and ENO single rear and a pair of Nemesis Le Reine du Nord rims. These will finish off a CX race bike. Do I ask my friendly local wheel builder to 2x or 3x? 3x the drive side rear? They're going to be race wheels - any spoke recommendations?

I'm guessing your rims are 32h, because you can't get the Nemesis in anything less. 3x all around, double butted spokes Sapim Race or DT Comp, doesn't matter which.

 

[LugHugger]

I'm guessing your rims are 32h, because you can't get the Nemesis in anything less. 3x all around, double butted spokes Sapim Race or DT Comp, doesn't matter which.

I've found a good deal on CX Rays. They would appear to offer a significant weight saving - any performance issues that you would caution against going with them?

 

[Bustedknuckle]

I've found a good deal on CX Rays. They would appear to offer a significant weight saving - any performance issues that you would caution against going with them?

Not RDV4Roubaix, I am sure he will have his own comment but cross wheels? How significant can it be? A matter of grams, ounces I am sure and thin spokes make for a less reliable wheel, all else being equal, plus they are pricey. I say DT Comps of Sapim Race also, 3 cross, brass nipps(or Prolocks).

 

[LugHugger]

BK, thanks for the comments. Based on 3x the CX rays will offer a 100g saving over Race spokes. Or 6.5% if I was to be pedantic. Like you say, they're cross wheels so how quick are the tyres likely to pick up 100g of mud under race conditions? That still doesn't change the fact that they're 100g heavier than they could be though I can get the CX Rays at the same cost as Race would normally retail at (and Race much cheaper than retail) but if, in people's experience, CX rays result in structurally weaker wheels which require more maintenance then I'd like to factor that in to my decision making.

Thanks again

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

Go with the CX-Rays if you can get that good of a deal on them. They aren't weaker than Race or Comps. If you look at the very first post of this thread I've been commuting all year on that wheelset built with CX-Rays, and if they can stand up to thousands of miles of commuting and thrashing, they can for sure handle the hour of power cross races season after season. Cx-Rays were made for racing, perfect for your wheels. Rock on!

 

[Archibald]

scenario: last service, the mechanic pointed out that the braking surface on the rims are becoming concave and would need replacing soon.
my current set are CXP33's on ultegra hubs
Been quoted around £100 per wheel to replace (rebuild) with new rims (CXP33) n spokes, keeping the hubs. The mechanic also mentioned a set of DT Swiss rims for around the same price
In light of all the 2010 discounts flying about, I'm also considering picking up a new wheelset - ie; like some EA70s - and using them as a basic "race" wheelset while continuing with the old ones for general weekend rides/training...

questions/queries/comments/etc... welcomed

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

scenario: last service, the mechanic pointed out that the braking surface on the rims are becoming concave and would need replacing soon.
my current set are CXP33's on ultegra hubs
Been quoted around £100 per wheel to replace (rebuild) with new rims (CXP33) n spokes, keeping the hubs. The mechanic also mentioned a set of DT Swiss rims for around the same price
In light of all the 2010 discounts flying about, I'm also considering picking up a new wheelset - ie; like some EA70s - and using them as a basic "race" wheelset while continuing with the old ones for general weekend rides/training...

questions/queries/comments/etc... welcomed

Only thing I suggest is that if you go with a dedicated "race" set, try to go down in weight, usually means going with a tubular set. The difference in weight is not much, but when you train on heavier wheels, which is good, you should shave some weight with true race worthy tubulars at least, accel out of corners, nimbleness and such. You go with EA70's, or whatever just because of a good deal, you'd just be getting another training set, and you'd almost have identical wheels to your Mavics. This is the most common mistake people make when purchasing a race only set, because they're put off by tubulars. It's really the only way to make a difference, ever so slight as it were.

 

[Archibald]

Only thing I suggest is that if you go with a dedicated "race" set, try to go down in weight, usually means going with a tubular set. The difference in weight is not much, but when you train on heavier wheels, which is good, you should shave some weight with true race worthy tubulars at least, accel out of corners, nimbleness and such. You go with EA70's, or whatever just because of a good deal, you'd just be getting another training set, and you'd almost have identical wheels to your Mavics. This is the most common mistake people make when purchasing a race only set, because they're put off by tubulars. It's really the only way to make a difference, ever so slight as it were.

I think that's the clincher, right there. Rebuild it is.
I'm not at a level of road riding that I will benefit from small weight differences or only a minor improvement in the wheels... (yet)
Cheers RDV!