::::~ Wheelbuilders thread ~::::

[baker0127]

Question?

Hey, RDV4ROUBAIX your wealth of knowledge when it comes to wheels is awesome. I was wondering if you've done any 20" wheelbuilding? I am a BMX guy.

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

Thank you! And yes, I've done lots of BMX 20" and 24".

 

[Archibald]

Only thing I suggest is that if you go with a dedicated "race" set, try to go down in weight, usually means going with a tubular set. The difference in weight is not much, but when you train on heavier wheels, which is good, you should shave some weight with true race worthy tubulars at least, accel out of corners, nimbleness and such. You go with EA70's, or whatever just because of a good deal, you'd just be getting another training set, and you'd almost have identical wheels to your Mavics. This is the most common mistake people make when purchasing a race only set, because they're put off by tubulars. It's really the only way to make a difference, ever so slight as it were.

what would you say regarding (tubular) Fulcrum 1's?
I've just been shown an add for them in a shop that's within budget...

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

what would you say regarding (tubular) Fulcrum 1's?
I've just been shown an add for them in a shop that's within budget...

Ok, so you're changing your mind on the fly. No biggie. I don't think Fulcrum makes a tubular in the 1's, only the Zero's. Not a fan of the aluminum spokes or Campy Taiwan (Fulcrummy) at all. Their bling to reliability ratio is not all that great, this is why you see screaming deals on Fulcrummys all over the place. You must realize I'm coming from years of hand built customs, so I'm a little biased.

 

[Marva32]

Ok, so you're changing your mind on the fly. No biggie. I don't think Fulcrum makes a tubular in the 1's, only the Zero's. Not a fan of the aluminum spokes or Campy Taiwan (Fulcrummy) at all. Their bling to reliability ratio is not all that great, this is why you see screaming deals on Fulcrummys all over the place. You must realize I'm coming from years of hand built customs, so I'm a little biased.

Who would ever consider you biased?

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

Who would ever consider you biased?

BroDeal.

 

[Archibald]

Ok, so you're changing your mind on the fly. No biggie. I don't think Fulcrum makes a tubular in the 1's, only the Zero's. Not a fan of the aluminum spokes or Campy Taiwan (Fulcrummy) at all. Their bling to reliability ratio is not all that great, this is why you see screaming deals on Fulcrummys all over the place. You must realize I'm coming from years of hand built customs, so I'm a little biased.

fair call.
the problem I'm having at the moment is there isn't much stock about for CXP33's. I'm 0 for 6 (stores) over the weekend, with around 2 weeks to get them in... hence the attraction of the fulcrum deal.

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

fair call.
the problem I'm having at the moment is there isn't much stock about for CXP33's. I'm 0 for 6 (stores) over the weekend, with around 2 weeks to get them in... hence the attraction of the fulcrum deal.

Many decent rims that can take the place of that CXP33. Just a few that come to mind:

-DT 585
-Velocity Deep V
-Ambrosio FCS 35
-Kinlin XR 300
-Stan's ZTR Alpha 340

 

[Archibald]

Many decent rims that can take the place of that CXP33. Just a few that come to mind:

-DT 585
-Velocity Deep V
-Ambrosio FCS 35
-Kinlin XR 300
-Stan's ZTR Alpha 340

what are your thoughts on DT Swiss R1700's?

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

what are your thoughts on DT Swiss R1700's?

DT makes a fine product and I'm sure these are ok, only once in a while I'll build with their singular components upon customer request. Never tried any of their current line up of wheels, just not a fan of prebuilts, I do custom only.

 

[Bustedknuckle]

DT makes a fine product and I'm sure these are ok, only once in a while I'll build with their singular components upon customer request. Never tried any of their current line up of wheels, just not a fan of prebuilts, I do custom only.

Saw your post last October and you mentioned Stans 340. I have built about 6 of these, brought in by customers and a crappier rim I haven't seen for a while. Its too light! Crappier than some Sun Ringle rims I have built with, just awful.

 

[Archibald]

DT makes a fine product and I'm sure these are ok, only once in a while I'll build with their singular components upon customer request. Never tried any of their current line up of wheels, just not a fan of prebuilts, I do custom only.

fair enough.
cheers

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

Saw your post last October and you mentioned Stans 340. I have built about 6 of these, brought in by customers and a crappier rim I haven't seen for a while. Its too light! Crappier than some Sun Ringle rims I have built with, just awful.

That's why it was at the bottom of that list...

I've built a handful of those too, some did hate them, others loved 'em. Seems that the lighter riders liked them better, heavier riders told me they felt like wet noodles. Anyhoo, an option nonetheless depending on rider weight I suppose.

 

[TexPat]

I re-built a rear wheel yesterday replacing a shagged FSA rim with a DT RR1.2 on a Powertap hub. I'd say that DT has a good rim there and would recommend it if you can't get a CXP33.
The rim was only 100 bucks NZD.

 

[Bustedknuckle]

I re-built a rear wheel yesterday replacing a shagged FSA rim with a DT RR1.2 on a Powertap hub. I'd say that DT has a good rim there and would recommend it if you can't get a CXP33.
The rim was only 100 bucks NZD.

Now called DT 585, nice rim, about the same $ in the US.

 

[Archibald]

I re-built a rear wheel yesterday replacing a shagged FSA rim with a DT RR1.2 on a Powertap hub. I'd say that DT has a good rim there and would recommend it if you can't get a CXP33.
The rim was only 100 bucks NZD.

I'll be sticking with the CXP33s as I've found a couple of sources for them

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

I've been using ski wax or Loctite 220 in my wheel builds for the last few years, about to try out Rock N Roll Nipple Cream for the first time. Anyone out there have anything to say about this stuff?

 

[TexPat]

It's alright. I've been using it for a couple of years with no complaint except that it's runny. Prefer the Wheelsmith stuff, which seems to harden sooner, but is too expensive in NZ.

 

[Bustedknuckle]

It's alright. I've been using it for a couple of years with no complaint except that it's runny. Prefer the Wheelsmith stuff, which seems to harden sooner, but is too expensive in NZ.

Boiled lindseed oil....works great, been using it for 25 years.

 

[TexPat]

Boiled lindseed oil....works great, been using it for 25 years.

Used linseed oil for years, but switched to Wheelsmith stuff 10 yrs ago or so.
Mind you, I've no complaints with the OT other than the mess. Maybe I'll crack open a new can of the old favorite once the Rock n Roll runs out.

 

[krebs303]

Z-spokes

RDV4ROUBAIX did bicycles ever do any wheels as poor as these. they were interesting to lace up to say the least. and the front wheel spokes were looooong

Technically a great idea, the Z-Spoke was a disaster for Yamaha.

In 1984, Yamaha made the disastrous decision to equip their motocross bikes with Z-spokes. Instead of 32 individual spokes, Yamaha's engineers thought that 16 continuous-length spokes would transfer the loads better from one side of the rim to the other. While that load shift may have taken place at the ends of the long spokes, just the opposite happened where the long spoke wove through the hub flange. Even a slightly loose spoke would cause the very long spoke to bow in the middle, and the bending force would crack the hub.

Although the Z-spoke still found limited use in Yamaha's trials bikes, after 1984 it would never be used on a motocross bike again.

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

RDV4ROUBAIX did bicycles ever do any wheels as poor as these. they were interesting to lace up to say the least. and the front wheel spokes were looooong

Technically a great idea, the Z-Spoke was a disaster for Yamaha.

In 1984, Yamaha made the disastrous decision to equip their motocross bikes with Z-spokes. Instead of 32 individual spokes, Yamaha's engineers thought that 16 continuous-length spokes would transfer the loads better from one side of the rim to the other. While that load shift may have taken place at the ends of the long spokes, just the opposite happened where the long spoke wove through the hub flange. Even a slightly loose spoke would cause the very long spoke to bow in the middle, and the bending force would crack the hub.

Although the Z-spoke still found limited use in Yamaha's trials bikes, after 1984 it would never be used on a motocross bike again.

This is a good example of trying to reinvent the wheel which applies to bike wheels as well, there's just far too many people out there trying to fix what ain't broken, unless it's a J-bend or nail head with external nipples I won't touch it. Krebs, moving to Colorado has really got my motorcycle bug itching me again, you may find me on a late 70's something next season.

 

[spectre-73]

I am after some advice. I have a Reynolds DV-UL 46 rear wheel 20 spoke, that I am going to change the hub to a White Industries H3 hub for campag 11 speed. It is originally drive side crossed and non drive side radial spoked. In this configuration only 5 spokes are taking the drive torque. When I change the hub should I change the spoke pattern too on the non drive side to crossed? They are tubular, so they are race wheels only and I weight 70kgs. Thanks

 

[RDV4ROUBAIX]

I am after some advice. I have a Reynolds DV-UL 46 rear wheel 20 spoke, that I am going to change the hub to a White Industries H3 hub for campag 11 speed. It is originally drive side crossed and non drive side radial spoked. In this configuration only 5 spokes are taking the drive torque. When I change the hub should I change the spoke pattern too on the non drive side to crossed? They are tubular, so they are race wheels only and I weight 70kgs. Thanks

Actually all the spokes in the rear are translating torque both ds and nds, drive side crossed all 10 both leading and trailing spokes, and the 10 radial . If I were you I'd keep the original half radial pattern, and remember which holes were used for the respective sides, wheel parts like hubs and rims don't like to be rebuilt with any other patterns than they were originally built up with. Hope that helps.

 

[Notso Swift]

I am after some advice. I have a Reynolds DV-UL 46 rear wheel 20 spoke, that I am going to change the hub to a White Industries H3 hub for campag 11 speed. It is originally drive side crossed and non drive side radial spoked. In this configuration only 5 spokes are taking the drive torque. When I change the hub should I change the spoke pattern too on the non drive side to crossed? They are tubular, so they are race wheels only and I weight 70kgs. Thanks

Are you sure the are not 24 spoke? I have some that I race on good wheel, and I am a 90kg sprinter
Not happy with the original hub, DT240's, Reynolds make a campy conversion hub.

EDIT Scratch that, mine are not the UL's (mind you at 1280 gr a pair they are not exactly heavy) Mine are just DV-T